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Despite their independent ways, your cats are very sociable animals. Of course, they will never let you know that, which is why they quickly hang up the phone when they hear you coming. But the truth of the matter is, they can get lonely and bored if you don't spend enough time trying to get them to play with you.

To minimize the chance of your cat feeling isolated, you may want to consider getting another cat. And to minimize the chance of that cat getting lonely, you may want to get yet another cat...and so forth. Here are some tips you might find useful for multiple cat households.

In general, the following combination of cats seem to work best: two kittens, a mature, neutered cat and kitten, or two mature neutered cats (either two females or a male and a female). The most volatile combination seems to be two uncastrated mature male cats.

Consider your current cat's personality before introducing a new cat. An active cat is more likely to accept a new kitten. A quieter, more reclusive cat might prefer a mature, adult cat as a companion.

If your cats exhibit personality conflicts, you can reduce the tension between family felines by making sure each cat has enough personal space and personal possessions to fulfill its needs.

Make sure you have at least one litter box on every floor and that they are easy to get to in an emergency. To avoid territory conflicts between cats, consider placing litter boxes in various locations throughout the house to avoid the exclusion of one cat from another cat's territory.

Be sure to keep plenty of clean, fresh water available for your cats at all times. Keeping bowls in multiple locations throughout the house might be a good idea.

Keep scratching posts and beds in several locations to accommodate all the cats in your household.

1. My cat won't use the litter box because he/she is rebellious and wants to make me mad.
A. True
B. False

2. My cat scratches the furniture to:
A. Mark territory
B. All of these
C. Stretch muscles
D. Shed nail sheaths

3. What's the purpose in why my cat "kneads"?
A. A sign of being hungry
B. A sign of aggressiveness
C. A sign of affection
D. A sign of being unhappy

4. My cat leaves objects such as his/her toys in his/her food or water bowls just to drive me crazy.
A. True
B. False

5.Why does my cat suddenly bite me in an aggressive manner when I'm petting him/her?
A. My cat is mean
B. None of these
C. My cat doesn't like affection
D. My cat doesn't want to be petted anymore

6. My cat purrs only when he/she is happy and relaxed.
A. True
B. False

7. Is it normal for my cat to exhibit body movements during sleep?
A. Yes
B. No

8.Why does my cat insist on playing and ransacking the house after I have gone to bed?
A. My cat wants me to get up
B. My cat is a nocturnal creature
C. My cat likes to annoy me
D. None of these

9. Why does my cat scratch the floor around his/her food and water bowls after eating as if to cover it up?
A. To hide it
B. Doesn't like its location
C. It smells bad
D. None of these

10. Why does my indoor cat attack me or my other indoor cat(s) when he/she sees an unknown cat outdoors?
A. My cat is most likely showing he/she is in control
B. My cat is most likely showing displaced fear
C. My cat thinks of me or my other cat(s) as prey
D. My cat is most likely showing displaced aggression

Answers

1. B 2. B 3. C 4. B 5. D
6. B 7. A 8. B 9. A 10. D

Cats can be very communicative. Unfortunately for us, they generally do not communicate verbally, and certainly not in a language that we understand! So when a cat stops using the litter box, that is his way of letting us know that something is wrong. In order to determine if it's a medical problem or psychological problem, there are a few things you need to know.

When your cat stops using the litter box, have your veterinarian examine your cat to rule out any medical problems such as a urinary tract problem. If you notice your cat straining to urinate or defecate, he or she should be taken to the veterinarian immediately, as it could indicate a serious health issue. Once your cat's health has been cleared, it's time to look to other causes of litter box avoidance.

It is important to make sure your cat's litter box is in a location that allows for some privacy. Cats, like dogs, use association as a way to dictate behavior. If your cat has a bad experience while using the litter box, it can lead to unwanted behavior and inappropriate eliminating. For example, if your cat has been frightened by the noise of a barking dog or a large household appliance while in the litter box, he may find other places that are quieter or more private to relieve himself. Trapping your cat in the litter box in order to administer medication could also result in the same unwanted behavior. To guard against this, try to find a relatively private location for your cat's litter box and allow your cat the same privacy you would like when using the bathroom.

Another reason for your cat avoiding the litter box may be the due to the number of cats in the household. Adult cats generally like to define their territory. Depending on the number of cats and the amount of space they have, territories can often overlap. This can cause territorial anxiety which may lead your cat to spray urine in order to mark his or her territory. Keep in mind, however, that the litter box can become part of a cat's territory, making it extremely important to have enough litter boxes for all the cats in the home. Cats in multiple cat households generally use more than one box, so having multiple boxes increases the likelihood that your cat is going to find a satisfactory one. A good general rule is to have one more litter box than the number of cats. For example, if you have three cats, you should have four litter boxes, if you have 5 cats, you should have six litter boxes, etc. If for space reasons you need to limit the number of boxes, have as many as you can and be sure to clean regularly, if not daily.

If you only have one cat and the litter box is in a quiet, private location, the solution could be as simple as changing the type of litter. Believe it or not, cats can be quite choosy about the litter they like. If you find a litter your kitty likes, DO NOT change it unless directed by your veterinarian for medical purposes. The litter box should be scooped daily and the entire box of litter should be changed once a week. When you change the litter, you should also wash the box with a mild soap and water and allow it to air dry. If a strong disinfectant like bleach is used, the lasting odor could deter your cat from using that box. If your cat is not using the litter box and the box has a cover, removing the cover can sometimes cure the problem. Many cats prefer the open air and find an enclosed box too confining, especially larger cats.

Hopefully these useful tips can help you find a solution to your cat's litter box avoidance problem. If you find that your cat is still not using the litter box after repeated attempts to resolve the problem, it might be reasonable to consult an animal behaviorist. Before doing this, however, it is best to contact your veterinarian for further assistance.

This is Part I in a series of articles on caring for rabbits. Look for additional featured articles in upcoming issues of our newsletter.

Rabbits make intelligent, friendly and quiet house pets. The average life span for a bunny is 7 to 10 years, with records of up to 15 years of age being reported. The following information is designed to help you take the best care of your pet and enjoy a happy, healthy life with him or her.

Diet

Rabbit Pellets: A good quality rabbit pellet may be offered daily but in limited quantities. The uncontrolled feeding of a pelleted diet can lead to obesity, heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, and kidney disease which results from the high concentration of carbohydrates, low fiber and high calcium levels in the pellets. Make sure that you buy pellets high in fiber (18 percent or more), and that you buy small quantities. Oxbow Hay Company sells very reasonable, high fiber pellets. You can find them on the web. Keep the pellets refrigerated or cool and dry to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets can cause a rabbit to stop eating.

The following chart shows daily amounts to be fed to your bunny. Do not refill the bowl even if the pellets are all eaten before the next day. Overfeeding of pellets is the number one cause of health problems we see. Keep your rabbit healthy by not overdoing it!

*Rabbits up to eight months of age can have access to pellets free choice, because they are still growing rapidly. However, after eight months of age, they should receive the following maintenance diet.

• 2-4 lb. of body weight—1/8 cup daily
• 5-7 lb. of body weight—1/4 cup daily
• 8-10 lb. of body weight—1/2 cup daily
• 11 - 15 lb of body weight—3/4 cup daily

*Please note that these food amounts are for the maintenance of the non-breeding, mature house rabbit. If you intend to breed your pet, then we suggest increasing the daily pellet amounts by 1/4 cup during the breeding season. For does that are nursing babies, the pellets should be increased over a 4 to 5 day period to free-choice until the babies are weaned. After the breeding period is over, resume feeding at the maintenance levels as listed above.

In some situations, your veterinarian may recommend that pellets should be removed totally from the diet. Do not become alarmed, because your pet will be able to receive all the nutrients necessary from the hay and fresh foods that you will be instructed to feed. This is commonly the treatment suggested by our hospital for very overweight bunnies that need to lose weight safely.

*Avoid pellets with dried vegetables and fruits. These are not healthy for bunnies.

Hay: Timothy, Orchard, or other grass hay(but not alfalfa) should be offered daily in limited amounts. It is important that hay be available at all times for your pet. In fact, 90 percent of your bunny's diet should consist of hay! Rabbits tend to eat small amounts of food frequently throughout the day and withholding hay for long periods of time can lead to intestinal upsets.

We prefer the loose, long strands of hay, as opposed to the pressed cubes or chopped hay. The fiber in the hay is extremely important in promoting normal digestion and for the prevention of hairballs. Hay also contains proteins and other nutrients essential to the good health of your pet. We no longer recommend the use of alfalfa hay, particularly if it is being used along with pellets (which are already high in alfalfa), because it may provide too much calcium and extra carbohydrates, which may lead to serious health problems and digestive upsets. If the rabbit is on a no pellet diet, then alfalfa hay may be used in unlimited amounts, but weight loss may be more difficult to achieve.

Check with your local pet stores for timothy hay or other types of grass hay. They can be purchased on the web at Oxbow Hay Company. Also check with local feed stores and horse barns, because many of these places will sell you a "flake" of hay off a bale at a very nominal cost. Hay should be stored in a cool, dry place with good air circulation (don't close it tightly in a plastic bag). Discard wet or damp hay, or any hay that does not have a "fresh" smell. The best way to offer the hay is to use a hayrack on the outside of the cage. Your pet can pull the hay into the cage through the bars, as he or she needs it. This keeps the hay clean and eliminates much of the waste.

At certain times of the year and in certain locations, it may be difficult to obtain grass hay. At these times it is okay to use hays mixed with alfalfa, or use strictly alfalfa hay for a short period of time. The most important thing is to always have hay available to the pet. Remember, we are restricting the pellets, and the hay is a major source of fiber and nutrients.

Fresh Foods: These foods should be given daily. Rabbits in the wild eat primarily tough, fibrous leaves, bark and other difficult to digest plants. Their digestive tract functions best when it has the most work to do in breaking down cellulose. If your pet is not used to getting any fresh foods, then start out gradually with the green leafy veggies and add a new food item from the list every 5 to 7 days. If the addition of any item leads to diarrhea or unformed stools in 24 to 48 hours, then remove it from the diet.

Young bunnies should also be introduced to new foods gradually. However, once your pet is eating these foods, try to give at least three types daily. We find that the addition of these fresh fibrous foods, along with the hay, helps in the prevention of hairballs and other digestive upsets. Plus, your bunny will love you for it!

The following are all foods that you can try on your pet. The total amount of fresh food that can be given daily, once your pet has been gradually introduced to it as described above, is about one heaping cup per 5 pounds of body weight.

Carrot tops, beet tops, dandelion greens and flowers (these are excellent, but no pesticides, please), kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce, (don't give light colored leaf lettuce or iceberg lettuce), parsley, clover, cabbage, broccoli (don't forget the leaves), carrot, green peppers, pea pods (the flat edible kind), brussels sprouts, basil, peppermint leaves, raspberry leaves, radicchio, bok choy and spinach.

Try to feed at least three different types of greens daily. Feeding just one type of green food only (especially broccoli, cabbage, brussels sprouts and spinach) may lead to nutrient imbalances.

Treat Foods: In a small amount, you can give one of these "treat" foods daily, (give about one level tablespoon per 5 lbs. of body weight) - strawberries, papaya, pineapple, apple, pear, melon, raspberries, peach, pear or dried whole grain bread.

One can alternately give one level teaspoon per 5 pounds body weight of banana or dried fruit.

*WE DO NOT RECOMMEND GIVING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING FOODS ROUTINELY BECAUSE OF THEIR POTENTIAL FOR CAUSING DIETARY UPSET AND OBESITY: Salty or sugary snacks, nuts, chocolate, breakfast cereals, and other grains (including oatmeal and corn). AVOID CRACKERS AND BREAD TYPE PRODUCTS.

Water: This should always be available and changed daily. A dirty water container can breed bacteria that can cause disease. The container can be either a water bottle or heavy bowl that is weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over. Do not use medications or vitamins in the water, because your pet may not drink if the taste or color is altered.

Vitamins: These are not felt to be necessary if the rabbit is getting pellets, hay and fresh foods in the diet. In fact, the indiscriminate use of vitamins may lead to over dosage and serious disease.

Salt or Mineral Block: Not necessary for the house pet on the described diet. You may want to have one available for those animals kept outdoors in warm climates and for breeding animals. (We do not recommend keeping pet rabbits outdoors.)

Night Droppings: It may seem strange to list this as a part of the diet, but these "special droppings" are an essential part of your pet's nutrition. During certain times of the day, usually in the evening, you may observe your pet licking the anal area and actually eating some of the droppings in the process.

These cecal (we are not confusing this with the word fecal) pellets are softer, greener, and have a stronger odor than the normal hard, dry round waste droppings. Your pet knows when these droppings are being produced and will take care of eating them himself. These cecal pellets come from the cecum, which is the part of the digestive system where fermentation of food takes place, and they are rich in vitamins and nutrients, which are needed by your pet to maintain good health. After eating these "vitamin pellets," he will redigest this material and extract all the necessary nutrients. This habit may appear distasteful to us, but it is normal and important for your pet.

Occasionally, a rabbit will drop these cecal pellets along with the waste pellets instead of eating them. They will be soft, brighter green, come in clumps and are misshapen, but formed and have an odor. This is not considered diarrhea, and, if it only occurs occasionally, is not considered a disease problem.

Guinea Pig Diet

Depending upon their health, guinea pigs need 60-100mg of Vitamin C per day. Vitamin C can be added to fresh water daily. (Do not use a multi-vitamin.)

Diet:

• 80-85 percent of the diet should be hay. Pregnant or nursing females and young pigs (less than four months old) should have alfalfa hay for extra calcium. All others should have Timothy hay (Avoid Calcium)
• 10-15 percent of the diet should be pellets. No additives such as seeds, dried fruits, oats, etc. Pregnant or nursing females and young pigs (less than four months old) should have alfalfa-based pellets. All others should have Timothy-based pellets (Oxbow Cavy Cuisine)
• 5-10 percent of diet should be fresh fruits and vegetables—see list:

Guinea Pigs as pets

Guinea Pigs, also known as cavies, are small herbivores that originate in South America. When socialized as young animals, they bond to their human families and make wonderful pets. Guinea pigs rarely bite, making them good pets even for younger children. In our homes, these friendly animals can live for four to eight years.

There are different breeds of guinea pigs. Peruvian pigs, known for their long hair, and Abyssinians pigs, known for their swirly hair, are quite common. Cavies come in many different colors and color combinations. Each little pig is unique.

Choosing a Guinea Pig

Make sure that you choose a pet that looks healthy. There should be no discharge from the eyes or nose, and no sneezing or coughing. The coat should have no bald spots or areas of broken hair. The animal should be bright and alert. Choosing a young animal will make it easier for the animal to become comfortable with his new family. After purchasing a new guinea pig, have him/her examined by a veterinarian. This is the ideal time to discuss the pig's health, nutrition, and housing.

Nutrition

Guinea Pigs have a specialized diet of hay, guinea pig pellets, and fresh vegetables. These animals, like people, require daily doses of vitamin C. We recommend about 50mg per day for each pig. A multivitamin is neither necessary nor recommended. Diets high in calcium should be avoided in adult, nonreproductive animals. Excess of this mineral may lead to the formation of bladder stones. Sugary foods should also be avoided, as these may contribute to painful bloating of the intestinal tract. Any diet changes in these animals should be done gradually to avoid significant digestive problems. Over supplementing with fresh produce may cause diarrhea in guinea pigs, a potentially serious problem.

Housing

Guinea pigs, being highly social animals, are happiest when they are paired with another guinea pig. Cavies should live in large cages with sides, which allow for good airflow, and solid surface flooring. Wire bottom cages will enhance the likelihood of foot infections known as bumblefoot or pododermatitis. Multiple levels with ramps in between allow for maximum usage of their space. Guinea pigs should always be provided with items to hide under or in when they are frightened. The recommended bedding material is recycled paper, like Carefresh pet bedding. Wood chip litters have been associated with respiratory, and bladder problems in guineas. Water containers, like bowls or sipper bottles, should be washed daily when fresh water is provided to prevent microorganism build up. Cages should be kept clean. Dilute bleach makes a good cleaner and disinfectant. Caution should be taken to be sure cages are rinsed thoroughly and dried well before the animals are put back in.

Reproductive

If males and females are housed together, and babies are not desired, the male should be neutered. If used for breeding, female guinea pigs, also known as sows, should be bred the first time, at less than 6 months of age. First time mothers over this age may be unable to give birth naturally as their pelvis may not open allowing the babies to pass through.

Baby guinea pigs are precocial. This means they are born fully furred with their eyes and ears open and functional. Though they may nurse for up to three weeks, these little ones begin nibbling on regular foods almost immediately.

Grooming

Guinea Pigs should be brushed using soft bristled brushes or combs. Their nails should be trimmed regularly. Cat nail trimmers work well for this.

Common Medical Problems

• Respiratory ailments
• Skin disease: parasites and ring worm
• Bladder problems: stones and infections
• Vitamin C deficiency
• Ovarian Cysts
• Digestive problems: bloat, diarrhea, intestinal twisting, decreased motility, obstructions
• Dental issues

It is important to establish a relationship with a cavy savvy veterinarian. This way, if the pet becomes ill, you'll know where to go. As for any pet, an annual physical exam is recommended. Careful observation of these pets allows for the understanding of normal behaviors, which permits the rapid identification of problems. Remember that these are prey animals who will go to great lengths to hide signs of illness.

Emergencies

Call your veterinarian immediately if you see:

• Diarrhea
• Drooling
• A decrease in, or lack of, appetite
• Abnormal discharge from eyes or nose

Hepatic lipidosis, also known as fatty liver syndrome, is a common and very serious condition that occurs in fat cats who, for some reason or another, have stopped eating. The disease results from an accumulation of fat in the liver and, if not treated during the early stages, can be deadly. Hepatic lipidosis is treatable and cure rates are good if the cat is presented to a veterinarian during the early stages of the disease.

Why would a fat cat not be eating?

Here are some reasons:

• Bad teeth
• Intestinal blockage
• Stress - examples: Moving into a new home, introducing a new animal into the family, owner goes on vacation
• Hairball
• Illnesses

These are all good reasons why a cat would stop eating. The most common reason for a cat to stop eating is an upper respiratory infection.

Think about it - cats like their food because they enjoy it and are familiar with the smell. So if a cat can't smell its food, it's not going to eat.

The question is: "What would cause a cat to loose its ability to smell food?"

An upper respiratory infection could cause a cat to loose its sense of smell.

Cats get upper respiratory infections all the time - sneezing, runny nose, runny eyes.

So, you have a fat cat that gets the flu and can't smell. Since the cat cannot smell his food, he stops eating. The body is looking for ways to feed itself, and tries to do this by converting stored fat into energy. In order for the fat to be converted into fuel, it must pass through the cat's liver. The liver can't handle this fatty saturation and liver dysfunction ensues. This doesn't happen to thin cats. They don't have enough fat available to mobilize and create this problem.

Many owners do notice that their cat is not eating, but they think, "That's all right, Tiger needs to lose a few pounds." Then, after a week or two without an appetite, they start to worry and finally bring the animal to the veterinarian. If they don't bring their cat in soon enough, he (or she) is a prime candidate for hepatic lipidosis.

Symptoms associated with hepatic lipidosis include loss of appetite, vomiting, depression, weight loss and lethargy. Some cats develop a yellow coloration of the eyes, ears and mouth. This yellow coloration (particularly of the mucus membranes) is jaundice and usually indicates liver disease and/or red blood cell destruction.

The prognosis for cats with hepatic lipidosis is good if treatment is not delayed. The longer that treatment is delayed, the less likely for recovery. Cats that have underlying diseases (cancer, pancreatitis) are less likely to recover.

How would a veterinarian treat a cat with hepatic lipidosis? The veterinarian would probably hospitalize the cat, and among other treatments, feed it through a tube. After your cat has recovered from hepatic lipidosis, or, before your fat cat gets hepatic lipidosis, you should put your cat on a veterinarian-recommended low-calorie diet. Exercise is an important factor in weight loss, so it is important to encourage exercise via catnip or toys. Carefully monitoring your cat's food intake in times of stress (for example, the addition of a new pet) can be crucial in preventing mortality due to hepatic lipidosis.

Preventing obesity is the best way to prevent hepatic lipidosis. Regular meals should be given and free-choice feeding should be avoided. Obese cats should be placed on a special diet food. By slimming Tiger down, you could save him from hepatic lipidosis and other life-threatening diseases related to cat obesity.

For more information on disease prevention, contact a staff member at your veterinary hospital