Newsletter
The veterinarians and staff at Cats & Critters are pleased to provide you with an online newsletter. This fun and fact-filled newsletter is updated on a regular basis.
Included in the newsletter are articles pertaining to pet care, information on our animal hospital, as well as news on the latest trends and discoveries in veterinary medicine.
Please enjoy the newsletter!
Current Newsletter Topics
Dental care is vital to your pet's health! If you've already established a dental care program for your pet, you're off to a great start. But if your pet hasn't received a dental exam from your veterinarian, it's time to get started. February is National Pet Dental Health Month, the perfect time to schedule a dental exam for your pet and develop a home care regimen for your best friend.
Why is dental care so important for your pet? Periodontal disease is the number one diagnosed problem in pets - by the age of two, more than 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats have periodontal disease in one form or another. The buildup of plaque and tartar on your pet's teeth leads to bacterial infections that can enter the bloodstream and infect other parts of your pet's body. Periodontal disease has been linked to heart attacks, strokes, kidney disease, osteoporosis and other problems.

The good news is that periodontal disease is easily prevented. Routine dental cleanings and a home dental care regimen can eliminate the plaque and tartar that lead to gum disease and oral infections. During a dental cleaning, your veterinarian also performs a complete oral examination of your pet. This includes screening for oral cancer, broken teeth and cavities. Spotting these problems early on makes them easier to treat and improves your pet's overall oral health.
Your pet's dental cleaning is more involved than the same process you go through at the dentist's office. Anesthesia is required to keep your pet still and comfortable during the procedure. Because of this, your pet undergoes a thorough physical examination before each dental cleaning. Laboratory blood tests, as well as other diagnostic procedures are also used to screen for potential problems and risks before anesthesia is administered. Using these results, we develop a safe anesthetic protocol specifically for your pet.

During a dental cleaning, tartar is removed from your pet's teeth with a hand scaler. Next, a periodontal probe is used to check for pockets under the gumline - where periodontal disease and bad breath start. An ultrasonic scaler is used to clean above the gumline and a curette is used to clean and smooth the teeth under the gumline and in the crevices. Finally, the teeth are polished and an anti-bacterial solution is used to help delay future tartar build-up.
Dental care doesn't end in your veterinarian's office. Brushing your pet's teeth at home is an added level of protection against gum disease. In order to be most effective, brushing must be done at least three times a week; however, daily brushing is ideal. Brushing your pet's teeth can be supplemented with antiseptic rinses. Some pet foods and treats are also effective in preventing plaque and tartar buildup. However, there is no substitute for regular brushing and professional dental cleanings.
Schedule a dental examination and cleaning for your pet today. Your best friend will thank you!
Feline Urologic Syndrome (FUS) is also known as Feline Idiopathic Cystitis (FIC) and Feline Idiopathic Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FiLUTD).
Feline idiopathic cystitis (FIC), or feline urologic syndrome (FUS), is a very common cause of lower urinary tract symptoms (e.g. blood in the urine, straining to urinate, increased frequency of urination) in cats.
FIC is characterized by a group of symptoms which can appear individually or in combination. Four of the most common symptoms include cystitis (inflammation of the lining of the urinary bladder), lower urinary tract infection, blockage (debris and crystals forming a plug that obstructs the urethra of male cats), and uremia (accumulation of poisonous wastes in the cat's bloodstream).
FIC affects male and female cats of all ages. Both male and female cats can develop sand-like crystals and stones. These crystals and/or stones may form a plug that obstructs the urethra of male cats. This plug or obstruction is a medical emergency, as urine cannot pass from the bladder through the urethra to the exterior. If the cat is unable to urinate, toxins accumulate in the bloodstream causing uremia - a deadly condition. Female cats rarely develop urinary tract obstruction due to their shorter and wider urethra.
Several factors have been identified as playing key roles in the development of FIC. Some of these factors include viruses, food, stress, lack of exercise and genetics.
Regardless of the cause, there are common symptoms associated with FIC. These symptoms include:
- Hematuria: blood in the urine
- Pollakiuria: increased frequency of urination
- Dysuria: straining to urinate
- Urinating outside the litter box
- Distressed sounds while urinating
- Increased grooming of the genital area
Male cats sometimes develop urinary obstruction and should be seen by a veterinarian immediately. This is a major medical emergency. Urinary obstruction that lasts longer than 24–48 hours is life threatening. The initial symptoms are often mistaken for constipation. Eventually, these cats become lethargic, loose their appetite, and make frequent and painful attempts to urinate.
Veterinary evaluation of a cat with symptoms of FIC include a thorough physical examination, abdominal palpation (feeling for an enlarged bladder), and medical history. The medical history includes questions regarding food, eating and drinking habits, as well as the personality and disposition of the cat.
Specific tests may be necessary in order to diagnose FIC and other urinary tract conditions. A urinalysis is routinely performed. Along with a routine urinalysis, a urine bacterial culture and sensitivity may be recommended. Abdominal x-rays and/or abdominal ultrasound may be needed to evaluate for stones (calculi) and/or tumors. Complete blood count and serum biochemistry tests are needed to evaluate the cat's general health, particularly if urinary obstruction is present and uremia is suspected.
The treatment for FIC is somewhat complex. Depending upon the cat's physical condition, hospitalization may be necessary. Fluid therapy is important for dehydrated animals. The fluid also causes production of dilute urine, aiding the elimination of inflammatory debris and crystals. Antibiotics are generally administered, even though there is no evidence that FIC is a bacterial disease. Additional medications—tranquilizers, anti-inflammatory agents and analgesics (pain killers)—are often administered when deemed necessary. Since the actual causes of FIC are still unknown, this leads to difficulties in treatment procedures.
Prevention is the key to controlling FIC in cats. A combination of home care plus veterinary exams should minimize the occurrence of FIC in pets that are predisposed.
Here are some preventive considerations that are based on current knowledge:
- Regular veterinary exams combined with urine analysis
- Provide plenty of fresh clean water. Change the water twice a day.
- Provide a food that your veterinarian recommends.
- Keep the litter box clean. Clean it often and make sure it is in an unobstructed area.
- Minimize stress to your cat by maintaining a stable environment. Do not introduce any new animals or make major changes in the home.
- Provide toys, scratching posts and other items that can keep your cat active and amused.
- Do not allow your cat to become obese or overweight.
Aside from a discussion about euthanasia, aggressive behavior in animals is one of the most difficult pet topics to discuss. However, according to veterinarians and humane societies, the number one reason animals are euthanized is for behavior problems. We think of euthanasia as a merciful relief from suffering for an incurably ill or old animal. But the majority of pets are euthanized because of behavior problems.
Aggressive behavior in pets must be addressed without delay. The longer it continues, the harder it is to change. Don't wait until someone is injured to seek help with this problem.

Some behavioral problems result from medical problems. A thorough physical examination by a veterinarian may reveal an underlying medical condition. A dog may be aggressive due to an injury or a congenital defect. Hip dysplasia and car accident injuries account for many episodes of canine aggressive behavior. Dental problems as well as chronic skin conditions can make a pet uncomfortable, leading to a low level of tolerance, resulting in aggression.
Pet behavior is a new and growing field. Your veterinarian may have some suggestions on curbing aggressive behavior. However, veterinarians often don't feel qualified to give such advice because their training is in medicine and surgery rather than behavior.
If the pet is healthy and initial efforts to curb the behavior don't work, then it is wise to contact a board-certified behaviorist. This is a veterinarian who specializes in animal behavior. Since mishandled aggressive behavior is potentially dangerous, most specialists will want to see the pet and the owner in person.
A pet dog or cat is a 15-year emotional, physical and monetary commitment. A little advance planning can help make it a rewarding experience. Prospective owners can reduce the chance that they will end up with an aggressive pet by educating themselves. There are many good books and pamphlets on pet behavior and there is much information regarding each individual breed. It is strongly recommended to read several books about general pet care and about handling and raising a puppy or kitten.
When picking out a puppy or kitten, don't choose the most aggressive or the shiest one in the litter. Pick out a friendly, happy animal that comes to you. Then, while the kitten or puppy is young, allow him (or her) to experience a variety of different situations, people, and other animals. Early socialization is very important for the development of the pet and particularly how he (or she) deals with the world.

If you are considering adopting an adult animal that is known to be aggressive, be realistic about your expectations. Even if the problem was the result of the previous environment, rehabilitating an aggressive animal is a big project. To believe the animal needs only tender loving care is a mistake. Animals do change, but it takes love, persistence, and lots of time. An aggressive pet is a tremendous liability, especially if there are young children around. If a pet shows signs of aggression, the most important thing is to get help right away. Whatever you do, don't delay.
Animal shelters throughout the country take in millions of lost cats each year and 99 out of 100 of these cats have no identification. Less than three out of 100 lost cats are reclaimed by their owners, and usually only one of those three has an identification tag. The owners of the other two cats end up spending hours, days and even weeks looking for their lost cats. Most owners of lost cats search long and hard, and never find their cats at all.
Don’t risk losing your feline friend forever. Please have your cat microchipped or use a collar with an identification tag that include your name, address and phone number. Be sure to keep the information current. You’ll want to tag or microchip your cat even if you never let it go outside because there is always the chance that it could slip through an open door or window and become lost.
Personalized Cat Collar
There are collars made especially for cats with a short piece of elastic sewn in. These "break-away" collars can be buckled snugly around the cat’s neck, but will stretch and let the cat escape if it should get hung up on a tree limb or fence. It’s important to remember that many more cats have died because they were lost and their owners couldn’t find them, than have ever been injured from wearing a collar.
Stretch and Breakaway Pet Collars
The first time you put a collar on your cat, give it a catnip-filled toy. The toy will distract the cat’s attention from the odd feeling of wearing a collar and by the time it finishes shredding the toy, it may have forgotten the collar entirely.
Cat with a Personalized Collar
A better and more permanent method for identification is the microchip. A microchip is a tiny electronic device, about the size and shape of a grain of rice. It is implanted beneath a pet’s skin between the shoulder blades, and stays there for the pet’s entire life. This procedure is as easy and as painless as a vaccination.
Implantation of a Microchip
Each microchip has a unique number. This number, along with information about the owner and pet, are added to a national pet registry. Most veterinarians and animal shelters have electronic scanners for detecting and reading these implanted microchips. If a lost pet is found, and the microchip is scanned, the registry is called and the owner is contacted.
Facts about Microchips:
- They are Permanent. The chip cannot be dislodged, once implanted, and has a lifetime of 75 years.
- The microchipping procedure is quick. It takes less than a minute.
- Microchipping does not require an anesthetic. It is often done at the time of spaying or neutering.
- The cat is not bothered by the microchip once it is implanted.
- Many people would not know to take a stray cat to a veterinarian or shelter for microchip scanning. This is the reason why we recommend a collar with tags along with the microchip.
- Although microchips are becoming standardized, there are still several types of chips and several registries.
In order to properly identify your cat, it may be best to use a combination of microchipping and collar with tags. The microchip would be the source of a permanent record and the collar / tags would give the owner’s name, phone number, and the fact that the animal is microchipped.
Of course, the best way to handle emergency situations is to avoid them by keeping your pet safe and healthy. However, in spite of your best efforts, accidents can happen. Here are some tips to consider before you need to use them.
Always keep within reach the phone numbers for your veterinarian, emergency clinic, poison control center, etc.
Keep a copy of your pet's health records where you can easily find them.
You may also want to invest in a book that covers first aid procedures. Ask your veterinarian for recommendations. For example, the ASPCA's Complete Dog Care Manual and Complete Cat Care Manual have excellent information on first aid principles, as well as what to do in case of traffic injury. The book also contains useful information on how to perform artificial respiration and what steps to follow in case of poisoning, burns, insect bites, etc.
Keep an emergency kit on hand with such items as:
Bandages
Adhesive tape
Cotton
Antiseptic cream
Sterile dressings
Gauze
Thermometer
Tweezers
Scissors
Blanket
Have a pet carrier so you can safely transport your pet to an emergency clinic or veterinary hospital.
Remember, an injured or ill pet may not act like its normal, sweet-tempered self. Handle the pet with care so you don't get bitten or scratched and need emergency treatment yourself!
Pet owners shopping for Frontline, Advantage and other flea control products for their pets should be on the lookout for counterfeit versions of those products appearing on retailers' shelves. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, these products are packaged in cartons designed to look like legitimate versions of Advantage and Frontline but are not approved by the EPA. These counterfeit products may be missing instruction leaflets required by U.S. law. The packages also may not feature required child-resistant packaging and the applicators may not be the appropriate size dosage for the animal indicated on the package. Using such products could put your pet at risk, as the counterfeit products may contain too much or too little dosage of the active ingredients of the pesticide or different ingredients all together, according to the EPA.

The products affected are:
- Frontline Top Spot for Cats
- Frontline Top Spot for Dogs
- Frontline Plus for Cats
- Frontline Plus for Dogs
- Advantage 10 for Dogs
- Advantage 20 for Dogs
- Advantage 55 for Dogs
- Advantage 100 for Dogs
- Advantage 9 for Cats
- Advantage 18 for Cats
The packages for the legitimate and counterfeit versions of each product look similar, so you must open the packages and examine the contents inside to determine legitimacy. Legitimate Frontline products will meet the following criteria:

- The lot number on the carton and the lot number on the applicator package or individual applicators will match.
- The instruction leaflet is included and provides safety information, U.S. telephone numbers and storage and disposal instructions.
- The applicator package is child resistant, and directions for opening the applicator package include an illustration that looks like the applicator package.
- The applicator package has a notch between each individual applicator package. Text on the package is in English only.
- Each individual applicator has a label that includes the name of the manufacturer (Merial); the EPA registration number; the contents measured in fluid ounces (not metric measurement); a list of active ingredients, and the statements "Caution", "Keep out of reach of children" and "See full label for additional directions" in English.
- The applicator label for dog products includes the size of the dog in pounds.

For Advantage products, the following criteria can be used to determine legitimacy:
- All applicator tubes will feature directions printed in English. Any applicator with instructions in another language is counterfeit.
- Applicator tubes will include the EPA registration number, word "WARNING" and a child-safety statement.
- Also on the tube is a reference to referring to the main label of the product for directions, as well as the name of the manufacturer (Bayer).
- Legitimate products will feature an active ingredient statement that matches the statement on the retail carton. Counterfeit products may feature different statements.
It is important to note that the EPA also considers versions of the drug sold in foreign countries but imported into the United States to be counterfeit as well. Products purchased in foreign countries may not have the same safety warnings or child-resistant packaging as products approved for sale in America, and the dosages and ingredients may be different. If you have purchased counterfeit products, the EPA recommends you dispose of the product according to local solid waste guidelines. You should also notify the staff of the retail outlet you purchased the product from as well as the EPA regional office in your state. Click here for more information about these counterfeit products.
Everyone has heard the myth about 'dog years,' which often is described to mean that a dog ages the equivalent of 7 human years for every year of a dog's life. This would mean that a 3-year-old dog's age is equivalent to that of a 21-year-old person and a 4-year-old dog's age would be equivalent to that of a 28-year-old person...and so on.
The truth is, the relationship is more complex than that. Dogs of different breed sizes age at different rates and dogs age faster or slower depending on how old they are, as shown in the chart below.
Why Does It Matter?
There are a number of reasons why owners should be aware of this variable aging rate. Among the most important are:Puppies are going through their fastest growth for their first year or even two years. During that entire time, puppies should be fed a complete and balanced puppy food. It may seem strange to call an 18-month-old, 60-pound large breed dog a 'puppy,' but that’s what he is.

Large breed puppies have unique nutritional needs. These needs include the need to manage caloric intake to help a large breed puppy achieve an ideal body condition. Keeping your large breed puppy lean helps keep muscular and skeletal growth rates at an ideal pace.
The rule of thumb is that dogs of breeds that typically weigh 50 pounds or more full grown are large breeds and will be puppies for two full years. In terms of selecting food and providing health care, you should treat them as puppies for that time.
Even though large breed dogs take longer to reach full maturity, they also will show signs of growing older sooner than other dogs. Very large dogs can become canine senior citizens as early as 5 years. Owners should treat their dogs accordingly.
| Pets Age / Human Age - Comparison Chart
| ||||
| Pet’s Age | Pet’s Weight
| |||
| 0-20 | 21-50 | 51-90 | >90 | |
| 5 | 36 | 37 | 40 | 42 |
| 6 | 40 | 42 | 45 | 49 |
| 7 | 44 | 47 | 50 | 56 |
| 8 | 48 | 51 | 55 | 64 |
| 9 | 52 | 56 | 61 | 71 |
| 10 | 56 | 60 | 66 | 78 |
| 11 | 60 | 65 | 72 | 86 |
| 12 | 64 | 69 | 77 | 40 |
| 13 | 68 | 74 | 82 | 101 |
| 14 | 72 | 78 | 88 | 108 |
| 15 | 76 | 83 | 95 | 115 |
| 16 | 80 | 87 | 99 | 123 |
| 17 | 84 | 92 | 104 | |
| 18 | 88 | 96 | 109 | |
| 19 | 92 | 101 | 115 | |
| 20 | 96 | 105 | 120 | |
| Relative Age in Human Years | ||||
| Denotes Senior Pet | ||||